Monday, December 6, 2010

서울: Seoul vs Beijing

Alright, four days in Seoul and six months in Beijing doesn't quite allow for a just comparison, but I'm going to make one all the same. Interestingly enough, our small group of Yalies who went to Seoul were split on which city we liked better, which just goes to show it very much depends on personal preference.

Food
Seoul - In terms of a typical meal in Seoul, restaurant food is healthy and street food is incredibly varied and delicious; the proliferation of Starbucks and lack of McDonalds/KFC are also pluses in my book.

Beijing - Due to its incredible size and ex-pat community, Beijing has many incredible 
gourmet restaurants that deliver quality meals from all around the world, so you can dine well... or you can eat for cheap in any hole-in-the-wall restaurant.

Transportation
Seoul - Seoul has the most extensive subway system I've ever seen, and much bigger subway cars than Beijing. The bus system seems to be pretty extensive too. The taxis are also very cheap, although they might not take you short distances.

Beijing - Beijing's subway system is very easy to navigate, and it can get you where you need to go, although it is definitely not as extensive as Seoul's. The Beijing bus system, though, is unparalleled. Taxis are also cheap when converted to the dollar, and they're literally everywhere.

Interacting with People
Seoul - Alright, I will say this: people in Seoul are incredibly polite and friendly. It was so nice talking to shop owners and salespeople and not feeling like I was about to become their prey. And people don't really push and shove on the street, nor do they lose patience with your inability to speak the language.

Beijing - Beijingers overall have been friendly enough, but generally speaking, in this city you have to look out for yourself or you will literally get run over. They also give directions by vaguely pointing in a direction and saying, "It's that way."

Culture
Seoul - Here's where Seoul gets a little weak. It has no strong cultural image in my mind, as the focus of the city seems very much on newness and consumerism. It should be noted that out of all four days I spent there, my cultural activity was limited to one palace and one war memorial, because there didn't seem to be much else to do.

Beijing - Beijing has culture oozing out of its every alleyway. From the hutongs to the Forbidden City, the Great Wall to Tiananmen Square, Beijing has more cultural "faces" than almost any other city in the world, except maybe Rome. And Istanbul. Anyway... 

Lifestyle
Seoul - Seoul definitely has a later bedtime than Beijing, with many stores, including retailers, staying open until midnight, and many restaurants staying open past that. You pay for it, though, as the stores then don't open until noon the next day. Side note: no censored internet.

Beijing - Unless it's an international area, Beijing goes to bed early, which can be frustrating when you're hungry at midnight and all you can get is KFC. However, Beijing begins its day early in the morning, which is probably when I should be getting up anyway.

Being Foreign
Seoul - In Seoul, it's easy. Typical American food is available everywhere, as are American stores. I actually did a happy dance in the middle of the street when we walked by some of my favorite American stores and restaurants all on one street. People also don't really stare at foreigners.

Beijing - Being foreign in Beijing means that people will usually be nicer to you, but they will also stare at you and maybe try to rip you off. It also means that you have to pay extra to indulge in Western habits, especially clothing and food.


Conclusion:
If you as a Westerner are looking for a city within your comfort zone, Seoul will win every time. Its set-up is very familiar to Americans and its convenience makes for a more stress-free experience than Beijing. But at the same time, it doesn't make me feel like I've made some kind of personal and cultural breakthrough. Beijing has its problems, it has its frustrating moments, but all that just makes my little successes in the city that much sweeter. I also feel a growing depth of my understanding of East Asia by being in Beijing, something I feel wouldn't happen in Seoul.

3 comments:

  1. Thanks for sharing your findings!

    Your comparison exercise has really highlighted this point for me; the importance of cultural landmarks in Beijing.

    Every city develops with a unique approach to retaining tradition, while creating modern convenience. Beijing is defined by Tiananmen Square, Gugong, Tiantan, the Summer Palace, etc. in the visitor's imagination. It sounds as though historic sites in Seoul are preserved "asides", rather than defining features.

    This also leads me to consider how Beijing locals' tend to identify themselves as "Beijing ren" to outsiders, conveying a sense of city pride and historical grounding. Did Seoul residents introduce themselves more strongly as Koreans, or Seoul inhabitants?

    Also, keep in mind that the Beijing you're experiencing is radically different from the pre-2008 Beijing, and even further separated from the 1990's Beijing. For residents, changes are real and have made daily life different (ie cycle-centric city to car-centric), though for short-term visitors, Beijing appears much more static.

    Anyhow, I'm glad to read that you're in the city that presents you with more challenges and opportunities for personal growth. Keep exploring!

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  2. Nice comparison! I come at this, of course, knowing Seoul really well and having been only a tourist in Beijing, perhaps two weeks total. Korea's culture is a bit more subtle (for historical reasons, like the Korean War bombing everything, for instance) but also just reflects a difference in scale: Beijing inspires awe. Seoul inspires a sense of ease and approachability.

    So glad you posted this. =)

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  3. Actually, Seoul for me is better than Beijing. Why? People there are nice and friendly, and they're even more apologetic. As a matter of fact, my impression on Korean people changed lately.

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